Newbie Locost

Chassis and suspension of whatever design

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Re: Newbie Locost

Postby OpelD on Thu Mar 10, 2011 4:25 pm

Hi guys, my chassis is coming on nicely I think. It has been a great learning curve but worth the effort so far.

Thanks to the McSorley chassis plans. I cant seem to think how one would build the chassis with just the book.

How good is the book plans for the front wishbones. Want to start making those sometime, but before I start want to know if there is again something else to have a look at. Hopefully going to get ford cortina front hubs. These should work with the book plans or not?

Chassis not very far, but working a few hours over the weekends.

Dont know how to post the pics.

Cheers guys.
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Re: Newbie Locost

Postby Wynand on Thu Mar 10, 2011 9:32 pm

I had built my McSorley chassis without any book with just the chassis plan taken from the net but with a Rorty IRS.

Are you building the std 442 or the 442E (wide nose)? If it is the 442E, I can help you with dimensions/sketches for the front suspension wishbones - see link. viewtopic.php?f=3&t=2038

I also used the Cortina uprights.
Wynand
Webpage: http://5psi.net
Car: McSorley 442E chassis
2.0l Ford Pinto with ZX9 bike carbs
Lightened flywheel, camjob, 4-2-1 exh
5 Speed Ford type 9 g/box
IRS - 3.7:1 diff ratio
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Re: Newbie Locost

Postby OpelD on Mon Mar 14, 2011 4:24 pm

Thanks Wynand, I am building the normal chassis not lengthened or anything whatsoever.

Does anyone know where I will be able to get bushes for the suspension that will work with the book dimensions. The book dimensions are that I use, a 25mm outside diameter tube with a inside diameter of 21mm with a length of 36mm.

Thanks
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Re: Newbie Locost

Postby OpelD on Tue Mar 22, 2011 11:03 am

Just an update. I got a guy that is turning the bush housings for me in which Brad's suspension bushes will fit. Still haven't got them though.

Another question. The chassis is getting to a point where I probably need to get some dimensions for the engine and gearbox. The transmission tunnel has been welded in, however the bottom pieces going to the fornt I have left out as I assume these would change depending on the engine and gearbox.

The question is:
The top pieces of the transmission tunnel going to tube P, I see in most plans are attached at an angle similar to the bottom pieces. Would it make any difference if the top 2 pieces goes straight to tube P (therefore not the same angle as the bottom 2 pieces) or should it be at an angle.

I am also planning on the Toyota with a T50. Should I wait until I get the engine and gearbox before going any further on the chassis?

Cheers guys
OpelD
 
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Re: Newbie Locost

Postby OpelD on Thu Apr 07, 2011 12:16 pm

Well everyone is a bit quiet these days.

Can anyone tell me the measurements for the 2 pieces on the bottom going to tube C. What I mean is what should the distance between the 2 be?. These are the 2 tubes where the gearbox will be. I will be using the T50 gearbox as well. Just want to start putting in these 2 tubes. If anyone can help please.

Thanks
OpelD
 
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Re: Newbie Locost

Postby OpelD on Fri Jun 24, 2011 1:16 pm

Thought I will post some pictures of what I have been doing. Some of the latest pictures are still on my phone and I have not downloaded them yet.

Early stages where I just started cutting the 1st bits of steel
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I started off with the L Section as this just seemed to be the hardest to get right with the compound angles.
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I then started with the rest of the chassis. I must say it would have been a lot easier if I had a bit more space.
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I have been getting a bit further with the build, but still stuck at the chassis. Only really get a few hours of work done over the weekends. Some weekends nothing.

At this stage I am still enjoying it a lot, just wish I had the money to buy everything at once and take a few weeks off from work.

Cheers guys

Oh and this as well, although the finished wishbone is still on my phone.

Image
OpelD
 
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Re: Newbie Locost

Postby OpelD on Fri Jun 24, 2011 1:20 pm

Sorry guys, didn't know the pictures would come out like this. Well al I see is half of the pictures.
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Re: Newbie Locost

Postby ross on Fri Jun 24, 2011 4:25 pm

The two vertical pieces that sit on top of member "C" need to be spaced to suit your bell housing, the width can vary depending on the size of your BH and how far back the engine is positioned. Once they're set then the front position for the two horizontal members is established, this also gives the angle of those two pieces.
Locost chassis with Toyota 20 valve blacktop and T50 box.
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Re: Newbie Locost

Postby OpelD on Thu Jul 07, 2011 9:05 am

Thanks Ross.

Hi guys,

I am really sorry for asking all these questions..............

This will be my first time taking on anything like this, and I have therefore decided that for simplicity I will stick to a solid rear axle. Now what are my choices really keeping in mind that the most common diffs are propably getting more and more difficult to find.

I think I have mentioned in 1 of my earlier posts that i have been told to get a nissan 1400 diff. Would this work as I don't want to buy something now and later on will find out that it wont work.

Sorry if I keep repeating myself in some posts, just dont want to spend money on something that wont work.

Thanks
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Re: Newbie Locost

Postby andersonhdj on Sat Jul 09, 2011 11:04 am

Anything will work, the questions you need to ask yourself are?
1.What wheels do i intend fitting? you want to stick to wheels of the same pcd. otherwise it's adapters and all sorts of other tripe that complicate your life. - also if you intend converting to disks make sure you can get at least a 14" rim to suit, otherwise it might not clear the caliper. i know, been there. A3 calipers on a cortina axle.
2. Is the intended axle the right width? see #1.
3. What ratio do i want? a lot of guys are using a 4.11 ratio, makes for a quick car but unless you're using a 5 speed box could be a pain in the rear if you intend doing some longish trips with the missus.
4.Probably most importantly, what condition is your prospective rear axle in? If it's a Borg Warner, you could probably find spares. Shot bearings are usually not a problem, can usually be found at one of the bearing places.
5.Make sure, if you intend staying with a drum brake setup, that cylinder washers and dust covers are easily available.
6.Unless you can get some sort of assurance that the axle is in good shape, DONT pay top dollar.

Do yourself a favour, go and have a look at the Brunton Stalker site, he is a South African building and manufacturing kits in the US. They use all Chevy pickup (Bakkie)bits, just as an example.
Hamish.
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Re: Newbie Locost

Postby DeclanRyan on Tue Jan 10, 2012 9:31 pm

Hi there all you (quite) experienced builders :)

My name is Declan and my friend (Ryan), we have decided to take on the challenge of building this amazing car.

I have been advised by MANY people to NOT build it from scratch and and rather buy specific parts, re-salvage/salvage abandoned projects or just try find good deals :oops:... Been told actually too many times.
So we decided to look around for unfinished projects or donor parts that haven't been used. My friend and I do have workshops and tools available except a few but that will be sorted out as soon as we are officially started. But as this is the first time we have built something like this, we will probably need guidance... and very well priced parts :wink: (PLEASE!)

We are young and VERY enthusiastic about this task :D

Kind Regards,
Declan Burger
Ryan Coetzee
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Re: Newbie Locost

Postby andersonhdj on Wed Jan 11, 2012 3:14 pm

Hi guys, read the posts and heed the warnings well, dont rely by any means on that book if you intend building your own chassis, it will just cost you at the end.
Also, beware of chassis offered for sale, unless its one of Brads, or comes with a vin #, be very careful, Iv seen more than a couple of chassis offered for sale that dont make any sense at all, in terms of monetary value, ie steel value, the chassis is not an expensive item to construct, when a fella offers one that is not even cold from the welding, then i get suspicious about what he discovered along the way, because that is the least of your outlay, relatively speaking.

If you do end up building yourselves, be careful of the tools you use, measure,measure,measure, cut. Tape measures can be diff from one to the next, combo squares get dropped and are no longer true...... Having said that, it is not always that big an issue, but rather as true and accurate than hit and miss.

Never give up, there is always a way, and there's lotsa help here!
Hamish.
Hamish.
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